Wednesday, May 6, 2020

Fairy Kei Jacket DIY

THE PEOPLE HAVE SPOKEN!

and they want DIY tutorials!

I am HERE for this. Fairy kei tutorials used to be everywhere back in the day but it seems like they're not really being made anymore, so I am READY TO FIX THIS PROBLEM!

If there's anything you'd like to see me make, leave me a comment and let me know!

I was flipping through my closet, trying to see if I had anything I could 'fairy-ify' and I found one of my pastel hoodies from when I was JUST starting out in the fashion. I feel like a lot of us grab these when we're just starting out since they're quite easy to find. I haven't worn mine in about two years, so I figured it would be great to get some use out of it again. 

I was inspired an old KERA tutorial and images of Nile Perch jackets. Nile Perch hand makes a solid chunk of their items, so I love looking at their products for inspiration. Spank! and Miss Alphabet are also wonderful sources of inspiration for handmade pieces and I will hopefully be making more tutorials inspired by these phenomenal brands in the future.


Keep reading to see how I made this!

Jacket Inspo

Nile Perch

Magical

Nile Perch

Nile Perch

Nile Perch

KERA Hoodie Tutorial 


Supplies


  • A pastel hoodie/jacket
  • 1/4-1/2 yard of minky in the colors of your choosing (I also used flannel in this tutorial but minky will hold up better in the long run!)
  • Cut-away fabric stabilizer
  • Pearl beads
  • Large rick rack
  • Ribbon
  • Beads
  • a cute cabochon
  •  a pendant blank
  • E6000
  • Access to a sewing machine and a basic sewing kit
This project cost me about $15 since I already owned most of the supplies for this. Coupons are your best friend here!

Steps


1) Design it!


The first thing I did was sketch out what I wanted on my hoodie. I just googled 'hoodie template', printed one out, and went to town. My finished design came out a little differently since I was trying to be mindful about physical wear on my jacket, and truthfully, things like minky bows on the cuffs of my sleeves aren't the greatest idea since I drag my wrists when I write and end up with graphite all over my sleeves.


2) Pin the rick rack


After I made my sketch I started to pin on my rick rack. I found this super chunky pastel pink rick rack at my local Hobby Lobby, but it seems Joanns and Walmart also carry similar sizes. 


I laid the hoodie out on the floor unzipped (THIS IS IMPORTANT!) and pinned everything in place. To make sure my rick rack would be even, I used a tailor's pencil to mark a small line in the center of the hem.



Please note, that doing this completely negates any stretchiness on the hem and cuffs. For this reason I recommend purchasing the hoodie a size or two up rather than going for a slim fit. I also recommend pinning more often than I did in this picture. I ended up going back and pinning at the top of each curve to hold my rick rack in place.


Zip the hoodie back up and make sure the rick rack is even. DO NOT TRIM YOUR RICK RACK AT THIS POINT IN TIME!  Make sure to leave an inch or two excess on each side. If you decide to machine stitch it you're not going to have enough rick rack to go around. 


Repeat this on the cuffs.

3) Sew your rick rack on


I did this two ways and I honestly prefer the second method. With standard rick rack, you can just sew down the center of the rick rack and call it a day. Since this rick rack is so chunky, The stitching looks a bit awkward this way. I didn't realize that until AFTER I was done with the bottom hem, so I'll probably go back and re-sew it later. It's fast and effective, but I prefer the hand stitching method much better.


For the cuffs (and later the hood) I couldn't fit the cuffs onto my machine so I decided to hand stitch the rick rack. Since I wasn't pleased with how the hem had come out, I decided to follow the curve of the rick rack when stitching on the cuff details and I think it came out a lot nicer.


While tedious, I think this method produces a better product. The stitching isn't as noticeable and it looks more coherent.


Ta daaa ~~~ The rick rack is on! Here you can really see the difference between the two methods I used. 

I later went back and stitched the rick rack onto the hood, but there's no reason it couldn't be done at this point in time.



4) Sew the bows


The next thing I did was to sew the bows to place on top of the pockets. I had originally wanted to add lace behind the bows, but I wasn't a fan of how my lace looked, so I decided to save it for another project.


My pockets were about 5 1/2 inches long, so I quickly drafted a pattern for a bow. These are extremely simple to draft. I made a 6 x 3 rectangle on a piece of my patterning paper, cut the fabric out on the fold, stitched around the edges


I stitched the bows together, flipped them inside out, sewed the opening shut, and basted down the center of the bow so I could pull it together to create a proper bow shape.


To make the center part, I just cut a strip of 3 x 1.5 in minky, sewed the long edges together (I just sewed them shut with right sides out since this will be the back of the bow, and thus, hidden), wrapped it around the bow, and sewed the strip back onto itself. 


 This is the quick and dirty method I use to make all sorts of bows! These are also great as accessories as well if you add a clip or pin backing to the backside!

5) Draft and cut the decals


I'm really not a great artist, but I can draw basic shapes! All of the decals I made were freehanded onto my pattern paper and cut out. I trimmed a few of the pieces down a bit, but other than that it was a pretty straightforward process here. If you're worried about things not looking right you can always print out basic vectors and cut those out on fabric!


Don't worry about adding seam allowances. Make these the EXACT size you want them to be.


Apparently I forgot to take pictures of the smaller heart or the moon decal, but trust me, it was the exact same process seen here.


After these were cut out, I  pinned them onto my hoodie to get an idea of how they would look.

5.5) IMPORTANT! 


PIN/SEW IN YOUR CUT AWAY STABILIZER NOW.
Do this BEFORE you pin your pieces in. I typically baste mine in (as seen in red thread on pictures in step 6) because there is less bulk when you're stitching these decals on.

I made the mistake of forgetting to use stabilizer on my first attempt. The left image is without stabilizer, and the right is with.



As you can see, the left puckers and waves, which is what happens when you sew a non stretch to a stretch fabric and the stretch material get pulled. The right is much cleaner because the stabilizer prevents the knit from being pulled and shifting while you sew

6) Sew your decals on


To attach these decals, I use a satin stitch. Now, minky doesn't fray, so this isn't 100% necessary, but I find that this finishes edges very nicely and makes things look very professional. 


A satin stitch is a very very close zig zag stitch. I set my machine to zig zag and turn the spacing down to 1/2. This creates a solid line of stitching that completely hides the raw edges of the minky. It can be a little tricky when trying to stitch sharp curves, but I find that picking your foot up and adjusting your fabric while the needle is down helps to create smoother curves at times. 


Here is what the cloud looked like stitched on by itself! I got a little bit off of the stabilizer here, so always be careful an make sure you've cut enough to catch all the edges of your fabric!


Here I am trying to figure out where exactly I want the moon to sit on the cloud


Pin on and sew! (sorry for the shadow!)

After you've sewn on your minky I like to take my seam ripper and gently run it along the inner edge of the satin stitch. Make sure not to catch your thread, but what you're doing is 're-fluffing' the minky by pulling pieces of it out of the satin stitch. This is really helpful if your stitching isn't as straight as you would have liked. 


7) Add finishing details


After I attached my bow pockets, I hand stitched little white pearls onto the pockets.


Pearls are a really great addition to any fairy DIY!

I also chose to add small organza bows to the empty space on my jacket. I simply tied a bow, finished the edges, and stitched them onto my sweater! Easy peasy!


This tutorial is actually quite out of order from how I actually made it haha. As you can see here both the bows AND the pockets were attached before the decals were sewn on!


I added small pink pearls to the center of the bows to hide the stitching. Pearls are one of my favorite types of details in fairy kei and I think they're really underrated! They add a touch of elegance while still keeping a dreamy feel.


I replaced the original hoodie string with a 1.5 in thick organza ribbon. My rule of thumb when selecting ribbon is that bigger is better. There's just something so cute about chunky oversized ribbons coming out of eyelets! I use the same rule when making ribbon shoelaces. When possible, use chunky ribbon instead of thinner ribbon!


 I finished the strings by adding a few of my favorite pony beads. These can be purchased in 3/4 lb bags at Joanns in the kid's sectioni and I recommend them to EVERYBODY. Also they glow in the dark! Make sure to finish your ribbon when you're done! I just used clear nail polish to seal the edges so I don't have to worry about fraying.


The last detail I added was this tiny strawberry zipper charm. I like to purchase cute cabochons off of aliexpress or other websites for my projects. Just search 'kawaii cabochon' and you should have a ton of listings! I would also recommend you use a pendant blank here rather than what I did. I was out of them and didn't want to run back to the store, so I just E6000'd a flat bail to the back of my charm. I'll probably replace it once I get more pendant blanks.




THE FINISHED PRODUCT


I am SO happy with how this came out! I've used similar techniques on other projects in the past, but this was the first time I've upcycled anything like this.

Here's how I styled the jacket! I paired it with my bodyline tutu for a super fun and classic look. I'm sad it's about to be summer! This jacket is so adorable and I really can't wait to coord it with more pieces from my wardrobe.


 If you enjoyed this tutorial, consider subscribing to my blog or following me on instagram @rosequartzroyalty!

If you do use this tutorial, PLEASE TAG ME!!! I would LOVE to see what yall make! There are so many possibilities for customization here, so I would love to see what you come up with.

If you have anything else you'd like to see me make a tutorial for, make sure to comment down below!


Until next time!
~ Rosequartzroyalty

Tuesday, April 21, 2020

Fairy Kei Crash Course


I was planning on putting this article off for a while, but I was doing maintenance work on the Fairy Kei Amino earlier tonight and stumbled across an atrocious article I wrote almost two years ago attempting to explain what *is* and *is not* fairy kei.

Needless to say, I gave out some really bad information. My apologies there.

Hopefully this crash course will atone for my past sins.

I will also be linking lots of items throughout the article, so make sure to go support those small artists! Most of the others are western shops, but there are a few Japanese shops tossed in there too.

What is Fairy Kei?


Fairy kei is a Japanese street style that originated from the Harajuku district in the early 2000's. It first appeared two months after the emergence of the Spank! store, but spank kei and fairy kei are two separate styles and Spank! designer Tavuchi has openly stated that she does not wish for the two to be conflated. If you want to know more about the different styles within fairy kei, make sure to check out my article here.

Fairy kei fashion is characterized by its dreamy feel, triangular silhouette, and colorful aesthetic. Pastel or bright colors should be used throughout the outfit and the coordinate should also be lightly accessorized. Fairy kei is a modest and ethereal fashion, meant to provide the illusion that the wearer might simply drift away at any moment.

Anatomy of a Fairy Kei Outfit


Hair and Makeup


Fairy kei hair is typically kept fairly natural, with loose curls and waves being some of the most commonly seen styles. Pigtails, braids, buns, half updos… there are so many options!  Some people opt to wear wigs or dye their hair bright colors, but neither are mandatory for the style. I personally prefer how natural hair colors cause the pastels in one’s outfit to really pop! Common accessories include bows, fluffy hair clips, hats, headbands, ribbons, scrunchies, decorative hair ties, and colorful clips.

Makeup is typically kept quite natural and soft. Eyeshadow ranges from nude tones to shimmery pastels and other bright colors. Glitter and rhinestones are quite popular facial accessories, and bright pink blush is a staple of the look.


Pixie_Late

Mahou Dolly


Tokyo Fashion

Dreamy Tabby
Mahou Dolly

Tops

The key to achieving the perfect fairy kei look is layering. Lots of fairy kei outfits feature cardigans, peignoirs, or cutesy faux collars to add bulk to the outfits and create a more ‘floaty’ feel. Graphic t-shirts and sweaters are a must in this style, with the most popular coming from brands like Milklim or Listen Flavor. Pastel 80’s sweaters are also commonly seen, although these are often scalped online. The goal of fairy kei is to create a look with details spread throughout the outfit, which is why graphic or patterned tops are so integral to the style. I recommend staying away from solid colored shirts or sweaters unless pairing them with floaty camisoles or similar on top. These tend to be too plain for fairy kei.

When looking for shirts for fairy kei, look for low contrast pastel details with cute art or motifs. You can also DIY your own shirts by sewing cute fabric onto the center with some lace around the edges. Vintage pastel shirts are also great, so I highly recommend checking your local thrift shops! I personally purchase most of my cardigans secondhand as they pop up quite frequently.


Creamy Pop Pretty Triceratops Shirt [BUY NOW ON AMAZON]


Yumekawa Central

Simple tops featuring motifs like polka dots or hearts are perfect for fairy kei!

Cherry Cheezy Fancy Soda Shirt [BUY NOW ON REDBUBBLE]

Moon-Dreams tumblr (no longer exists)
Care Bears Boyfriend T-Shirt [BUY NOW FROM TRUFFLESHUFFLE]

Bottoms


Colorful and fluffy skirts, particularly tutu and tiered skirts are a key staple to this style. Pants should only be used when they are oversized. Harem pants, joggers, pastel trousers, and bloomer shorts are all acceptable bottoms as well. When using items like circle skirts, try to layer a tutu or small petticoat underneath! Fairy kei is known for its triangular silhouette, so avoid tightly fitting bottoms at like jeans or tight shorts. Leggings should never be worn as pants for the style, so layer shorts or skirts over them! Bottoms should typically flare at the hem or throughout the leg.

Avoid pleated tennis skirts or other skirts with harsh angles at the bottom. These tend to be too 'sharp' for the style and tricky to work with.

Bodyline Tutu [BUY NOW ON BODYLINE]
Rainbow Bodyline Skirt [BUY NOW ON BODYLINE]
Holley Tea Time Pastel Party Skirt [BUY NOW ON HOLLEY TEA TIME]
Tiered Ruffle Skirt [BUY NOW AT PEACOCKALORUM]
Miss Jediflip Joggers and Skirt  [Coming soon to Miss Jediflip]
QT-Pill
Tokyo Fashion
Space Alien Harem Pants [BUY NOW ON BUNNY AND BLACK]


Shoes and Legwear



Sporty shoes and chunky platforms are very popular for fairy kei. Canvas shoes can be painted to achieve any look, and white laces can easily be swapped for colorful ones or chunky ribbon! I personally also love the look of tea parties in fairy kei, and I'm hoping this trend somehow winds up coming back.
Kyandi
Pastel Raindrops

Magic Pearl Heart's sneaker tutorial




Legwear is arguably one of the most important and commonly overlooked parts of fairy kei. Tights, over the knee socks, crew or ankle socks, and legwarmers are all staples of the style and help to provide the iconic layered feel. Solid white tights with colorful legwarmers are a great staple for those just starting out! Recently I have been wearing sheer white polka dot tights that I purchase in bulk from Aliexpress. 
Spank! Moon Dreamer Tights [MUST USE A SHOPPING SERVICE FOR SPANK!]
Tokyo Fashion
Tokyo Fashion

Pastel Raindrops


Accessories


Accessories should be add to used small details all over the body. Simple beaded bracelets, resin necklaces, vintage jewelry, and repurposed items like cassette tapes are all very common! I tend to make most of my own accessories, since they're fairly easy to make! A package of heart or star beads, fake pearls, and elastic beading string can make some really cute bracelets!
Pompom Hair Tie Tutorial
Pastel Candy Castle Necklace [BUY NOW ON ETSY]

Sakura1tama Fluffy Clips [MUST USE A SHOPPING SERVICE]

DIY Cassette Necklace Tutorial
Princette Party
The Fancy Love Club

Kudos Workshop
Pastel Pink Bow Belt [BUY NOW ON AMAZON]

Additional Info


I mainly focused on purchasing new items for fairy kei in this article, but I recommend checking your local thrift shops or sites like Mercari, Depop, Poshmark, Lacemarket, Keimarket, and other online secondhand shops. I personally buy most of my items through websites like Mercari JP and Rakuten through my shopping service. I find that items from brands like Milklim and Nile Perch are much more affordable on the Japanese side of the market because sellers in the West tend to overcharge for items.

If finding bargains in real time is something that interests you, make sure to join the Fairy Kei Discord Server! We regularly share shop updates, bargain finds, and can help teach you how to use a shopping service or purchase from overseas shops!

If you'd like a more comprehensive list of shops, I recommend checking out these two links!



Hopefully everyone has a little better of an idea of what fairy kei *is* after reading this article! I'm a bit busy with classwork right now, but I just got the urge to type this up. After finals hopefully I'll be able to do a series where I go back and fix my own outfits and show you how to take your outfits from general pastel to fairy! 

Thanks for reading!

~RoseQuartzRoyalty